Eye Makeup Techniques for Different Eye Shapes

Your eyes are unique, and your makeup should be too. Understanding your eye shape is the first step to creating eye looks that truly enhance your natural beauty. As professional makeup artists, we've developed specialized techniques for each eye shape to help you make the most of your features. In this comprehensive guide, we'll walk you through the best makeup approaches for hooded, almond, round, monolid, and downturned eyes.

Identifying Your Eye Shape

Before diving into techniques, let's identify your eye shape. Stand in front of a mirror and observe:

• Almond Eyes: Slightly upswept at the outer corners with a visible crease
• Round Eyes: Equal height and width with a visible crease
• Hooded Eyes: Excess skin folds down from the brow bone, obscuring the crease
• Monolids: Minimal to no visible crease, with the eyelid appearing as one smooth surface
• Downturned Eyes: Outer corners angle downward, creating a slight droop
• Upturned Eyes: Outer corners angle upward, creating a cat-like appearance

Remember that many people have features of multiple eye shapes, and these techniques can be adapted to your unique features.

Techniques for Almond Eyes

Almond eyes are considered the "ideal" eye shape as they're versatile and balanced with the eye's natural proportions.

Best Eyeshadow Application

For almond eyes, focus on enhancing your natural shape rather than correcting it:

• Apply a medium-toned shadow to the entire lid
• Add a deeper shade to the outer corner and blend into the crease
• Highlight the inner corner and brow bone
• For a dramatic look, extend the shadow slightly upward and outward at the outer corner

Eyeliner Techniques

Almond eyes can handle most eyeliner styles:

• For a natural look, line the upper lash line and smudge slightly
• For a classic cat eye, extend the liner upward and outward from the outer corner
• For a more dramatic look, try a winged liner that follows your natural upward tilt

Techniques for Round Eyes

Round eyes appear more circular and open. The goal is typically to elongate the eyes and create the illusion of almond-shaped eyes.

Best Eyeshadow Application

To elongate round eyes:

• Apply a medium shade across the lid
• Use a darker shade to create a V-shape at the outer corner, extending both upward and downward
• Blend the darker shade along the outer third of your crease
• Avoid applying dark shadow all across the crease, as this can make eyes appear rounder
• Apply highlighter to the inner corner and center of the lid to draw attention horizontally

Eyeliner Techniques

For round eyes, focus on creating horizontal lines:

• Apply a thin line along the upper lash line, extending slightly past the outer corner
• Create a subtle wing that extends horizontally rather than upward
• Consider tightlining (applying liner to the upper waterline) to enhance the lash line without adding width
• Lower lash liner should be applied to the outer third only, to avoid closing off the eyes

Techniques for Hooded Eyes

With hooded eyes, the goal is to create the illusion of a more defined crease and prevent makeup from disappearing when the eyes are open.

Best Eyeshadow Application

For hooded eyes, placement is key:

• Map your crease by looking straight ahead in the mirror and marking where your bone protrudes
• Apply your transition shade slightly above your natural crease
• Apply darker shades to the outer corner and blend upward
• Avoid applying shimmery shades directly on the hooded area, as this can emphasize the hood
• Apply matte or satin finishes to the mobile lid

Eyeliner Techniques

For hooded eyes:

• Apply a thin line along the upper lash line
• Create a thick wing that's visible when your eyes are open
• Consider a "cut crease" technique using concealer to create a defined line
• Tightlining can help define the eyes without taking up lid space

Techniques for Monolids

Monolids lack a visible crease, so the goal is to create dimension and definition without overwhelming the eye.

Best Eyeshadow Application

For monolids:

• Apply a gradient of colors from light to dark, with the darkest shade at the lash line
• Use a "smoky" technique by blending shadows upward rather than focusing on a crease
• Apply shimmery shades to the center of the lid to create dimension
• Consider using tape to create a sharp edge at the outer corner
• Apply a darker shadow in a "C" shape from the inner to outer corner along the lash line

Eyeliner Techniques

For monolids:

• Apply a thicker line along the upper lash line to create definition
• Consider a graphic liner style that's visible when eyes are open
• Try a "double wing" with lines at both the upper and lower lash lines
• Smudged kohl liner can create a soft, smoky effect

Techniques for Downturned Eyes

With downturned eyes, the goal is to lift the outer corners and create the illusion of an almond shape.

Best Eyeshadow Application

To lift downturned eyes:

• Apply a medium shade across the lid
• Concentrate darker shadow at the outer corner and extend upward
• Blend the darker shade along the outer third of your crease in an upward motion
• Apply highlighter to the inner corner and along the brow bone
• Avoid applying dark shadow to the inner corner, which can pull the eyes down

Eyeliner Techniques

For downturned eyes:

• Apply a thin line along the upper lash line
• Create a pronounced wing that extends upward from the outer corner
• Consider a "reverse cat eye" with a thicker line at the outer corner that tapers toward the inner corner
• Apply liner to the lower lash line only at the outer third

Universal Tips for All Eye Shapes

Regardless of your eye shape, these techniques can enhance any look:

• Always curl your lashes before applying mascara to open up the eyes
• Apply a light, shimmery shadow to the inner corner to brighten the eyes
• Define your brows to frame your eyes and complete your look
• Use concealer in the inner corner and along the outer corner to brighten and lift
• Blend, blend, blend—harsh lines can disrupt the natural shape of your eyes

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Regardless of your eye shape, avoid these common pitfalls:

• Applying too much product, which can overwhelm smaller eyes
• Following trends without considering if they complement your eye shape
• Using only one brush for all applications—different brushes create different effects
• Skipping primer, which can cause creasing and fading
• Not blending properly, creating harsh lines that disrupt the natural eye shape

Tools That Make a Difference

The right tools can enhance your eye makeup application:

• Pencil Brush: Perfect for precise application along the lash line and in the crease
• Blending Brush: Essential for softening edges and creating seamless transitions
• Flat Shader Brush: Ideal for packing color onto the lid
• Angled Brush: Great for creating sharp lines and wings with eyeshadow or gel liner
• Lash Curler: A must-have for opening up the eyes before mascara application

Final Thoughts

Understanding your eye shape is the foundation of beautiful eye makeup, but don't be afraid to experiment and break the rules. The techniques outlined here are guidelines, not rigid rules. Your eye shape is unique to you, and what works best may be a combination of these approaches.

Practice makes perfect, so take time to experiment with different techniques and products. Remember that makeup should enhance your natural beauty, not mask it. The goal is to create eyes that look brighter, more defined, and beautifully you.